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Thursday, July 26, 2001 at 10:21:50
Dear everyone,
I finally made it to Vietnam, and it's every bit as hot as I thought it would be! I landed safely in Hanoi, walked through customs with no hassle, and met a nice guy holding a name up with my Vietnamese and American name. Phew!
The guest house is not quite what I had expected. It claims to cater to overseas Vietnamese, also known as Viet Kieu. There's nothing here that says that, especially since the air-conditioner works off and on, and there's a lovely film that coats my room's surfaces and toilet. I was hoping to meet a bunch of other Vietnamese and other foreigners that I could learn and hang out with. But, the place seems pretty vacant.
Aside from the guest house, I had a wonderful day! My friend, Nga, picked me up on her motorbike, had lunch with me, brought me to the bank to convert currency, and bargained for a new pair of "Nike" sandals for me. I also tried to email this letter earlier today, but lost it due to an unfortunate computer crash.
In the evening, I met Nga and her Australian friend Alexandra for dinner and a long ride around the lake at night via motorbike. Of course, I tried not to hold on to the seat while they swerved in and out of danger, but they are very capable drivers!
Okay, that's it for now. I hope you're all doing well. This will be the *only* email update you will receive, unless you're family or enjoy my Vietnam journal-type spam. You can always read my updates at any time on http://www.oogamedia.com/. But, if you'd like to receive emails like this as I compose them, please let me know and I'll add you to the list!
Take care and I hope to hear from you! Chao tam biet! (Goodbye, for now!)
Love,
Mark
Friday, July 27, 2001 at 10:34:24
Does everyone know how much I dislike bugs? I know that my tolerance is growing when a cockroach scurries passed my leg in the internet cafe, and I don't get up and nuke the site from orbit. (Bad "Aliens" reference) I'm sure that that's just a preview of what's yet to come during my stay in Vietnam. I can't wait!
Speaking of adjustments, my shirt has constantly been acting as a second skin in this heat. I mean, I'd like to give you the shirt off my back, but I can't seem to take it off...
I forgot to mention that I met my friend Nga at the internet cafe where she still works, during my trip to Vietnam last year. We've been in touch via email ever since. So far, she and others have been encouraging me to speak Vietnamese as much as I can. In fact, the receptionist won't give me my room key unless I ask for it in Vietnamese. If I don't know how to say the sentence in Vietnamese, they will translate and listen for me to repeat it back until I get it right. It's very exciting and fun, although I still have a lot of work ahead of me.
Today, I walked around the streets in an attempt to familiarize myself with the surroundings. I had no such luck since I forgot my map and all of the streets as of now look the same. I did manage to order my breakfast in Vietnamese, which consisted of delicious pho bo and cafe sua nong. (Beef soup and hot coffee with condensed milk) So, I was proud of myself. I hung out for the latter part of the day at the Sinh internet cafe, while Nga worked and I got to practice Vietnamese with she and her co-workers.
Tonight, Nga took me to a discotheque, which was basically a dance club for the locals. Of course, no one can afford the steep prices for food or alcoholic drinks, so I don't know where they make their money. Possibly banner ads?
Okay, it looks like their closing up the internet cockroach cafe, so I'm off to my filthy guest house for one more night. Nga convinced me to move into a new hotel that's cleaner, has lots of non-tourists staying there, and is located in the heart of the city. I checked it out earlier today and can't believe that it'll only cost me $10 per night, which is $3 less than my current babe-magnet-of-a-pad.
Love,
Mark
Sunday, July 29, 2001 at 00:14:30
Yesterday (Saturday), was a weird day for me. I checked out of the guest house into a new spot called Hoa Linh Hotel. I like it a lot better, since it's closer to Nga's internet cafe and is in the heart of Hanoi in the Old Quarter.
As I was hanging out yet again at Nga's office, I painfully realized that I was becoming increasingly dependent on her. She told me that she was busy that night and I thought, who will I have dinner with tonight? Who will show me the ropes and help me communicate with the locals? Aside from Alex, I don't know anyone else in Hanoi. But, I plan to make new acquaintances once my Vietnamese gets better and begin language classes at the University. I just felt an unexpected wave of loneliness, which Nga helped me avoid until then. I shouldn't take her friendship for granted. I truly consider myself lucky.
At 4:30pm, I returned to my new hotel room and unintentionally fell asleep until 11pm. By then, it was too late to write email or eat dinner, because everything seems to shut down pretty much after 11pm. I will soon learn to find the late night pho stands, but until then...
Today, is a better day for me. It's 3:38 in the afternoon and I'm composing this letter with a clearer state of mind. There are simply too many events to cover. For instance, two days ago, I burnt the side of my calf against the exhaust pipe of a recently parked motorbike. The burn isn't too bad and I don't really notice it. For the most part, I'm simply overwhelmed with thoughts.
Tonight, I'm meeting up with Nga and her friends, because we're planning to go to Cat Ba for a few days tomorrow. So, that will be a lot of fun. On Thursday, I will enroll at the University of Foreign Studies in order to expedite my language skills in Vietnam. Unfortunately, the school is 25 minutes away by taxi, but it should keep me busy during my stay in Hanoi. That way, I won't rely on Nga for everything.
Oh, my. I put my sandwich down next to the computer monitor and discovered tiny ants all over the bread. (shiver) Nga bought it for me and I didn't want to be rude by throwing it away, so I calmly brushed the critters off. So, I'm eating the rest of the sandwich, while typing the end of this letter with one hand. So that's proof that I'm really trying to make amends with the bugs...
Love,
Mark
Wednesday, August 1, 2001 at 19:55:14
Hey, everyone!
It's been a long and humid past three days, but I survived the 6 1/2 hour bus and boat ride to and from the Cat Bay Islands in Ha Long Bay.
I woke up at 6am on Monday, crammed some pho ga (chicken soup) down my throat and joined Nga, six other beautiful Vietnamese women, and Patrick (Trang's boyfriend), for the scenic journey. It was a trip that they had been planning for a while, and I was more than happy to tag along.
For the most part, the Cat Ba trip was similar to the one I had with my parents, last year. The massive vegetated rock islands were as breath-taking as before. Only, this time, I was able to practice speaking Vietnamese and got to know all of Nga's friends who were all very sweet and friendly. There were many foreigners from England, Japan, and France. Most of them kept to themselves, listening to their mini-disc players, but I met a couple of travelers from the SF Bay Area. I even had dinner with Erica last night who is finishing her 3 month south east Asia trip by herself. Unfortunately, she's returning to the Bay Area tomorrow (Friday), but it was nice to hang out and discuss familiar topics. I'm even going to go to the main market with her, today.
The funniest part about being a Viet Kieu is that if I keep my mouth shut, I can get into places for the cheaper Vietnamese prices! I mean, it's not that I can't afford the extra 40 cents or a dollar, but I guess Nga's friends find it entertaining to see if I can pass. After all, I'd hate to disappoint them...
Surviving the big waves and hot wind at the end of the boat ride to Cat Ba was difficult. Since the boat had to slow down to avoid getting its passengers seasick, it seemed to make the ride that much longer. We even stopped the boat so that the passengers could take a short swim. Unfortunately, Nga and her friends can't swim, so I felt badly for making them wait. By the end of the boat ride, everyone was an exhausted mess from the hot sun.
Once we got to the air-conditioned hotel, things got a lot better. We ate a delicious variety of prawns, catfish soup, calamari, rice, and spinach. Afterward, we shook our booties at a nearby disco tech with no air-conditioning. Talk about working up a sweat! Then, to top off the night, we went out for karaoke and sang English and Vietnamese songs until 1:30am. I was very impressed with everyone's singing and am surprised they don't do it professionally. As for myself, my rendition of the Beatle's "Help" was nothing in comparison.
The next day, Patrick and I woke up at 9:30, while the other women except for Trang had already been at the beach since 7am. Yeesh! Whatever happened to party all night and sleep all day? We joined them for lunch and a swim and then retreated to the cool hotel for their usual card game, where they gamble for each other's money. They're all very good at guessing the hands of one another, but I still can't seem to follow the rules. I was also too tired to participate. I must say, that there's something sexy about die hard women who enjoy gambling and ride motorbikes...
Today's ride back to Hanoi was a little easier, probably due to the fact that most of Nga's friends stayed an extra day. I was feeling uncomfortable in Cat Ba, since I didn't bring the right t-shirts to allow my skin to breathe. My skin was constantly glistening with sweat and our air-conditioning started shutting down. Besides, Nga needed to get back to work, so I didn't mind returning with her.
Okay, that's it for now. My friend friend Fun, with whom I met at Berklee College of Music, might visit me at the end of this month in Hanoi from Malaysia, so we'll see.
Thanks for your notes and I miss you all!
Love,
Mark
Thursday, August 2, 2001 at 22:44:57
Dear folks,
Yesterday, I spent most of the day with Erica, who's also from the Bay Area. Since it was her last day, we decided to be decadent by going to the Daewoo hotel, the most expensive hotel in Hanoi, for a swim and massage.
Unfortunately, it started raining after 40 minutes in the pool, so we packed it up, ordered some dessert from the cafe and got a massage. At $20 per hour, you can't beat it! The massages are much different from what I would expect. My Vietnamese masseuse was young and beautiful, while Erica's was older. Mine walked on my back, while hers didn't. Don't worry, she didn't ask me if I wanted "extra," nor would I accept it. Even when she asked if I wanted her to be my girlfriend at the end of our session, I was strong and weak enough to decline.
I must say, that I got the better end of the bargain, because I got to practice speaking Vietnamese while she worked her magic on my back. I learned new words such as "buon," which means "tickle."
Later that night, Erica, Nga, Alex, and Patrick went to a Thai restaurant in the pouring rain. It was fun and exhilarating riding on the motorbikes in the rain, but one wrong turn could really mess up my trip...
Tonight, I will join Nga and some other friends at Alex's new home. She's engaged to a Vietnamese man and is having a celebration dinner. I can't wait!
Love,
Mark
Saturday, August 4, 2001 at 10:30:54
Dear everyone,
The computer just crashed on me, so I didn't get a chance to send the letter that took me an hour and a half to compose. So, I'm going to summarize it:
Last night, I had a great time having dinner at Alex's new apartment. I finally got to meet her fiance, Hung (Don't get any ideas!) The dinner was fabulous. The women cooked while the men sat on their asses and drank beer. I guess, that's how it is in Vietnam. When I attempted to help in the kitchen, Alex said that Hung and his Vietnamese friends will think I'm a girl if I don't return to the male bonding. Wow. Talk about the complete opposite from what I'm used to.
When one of the men would toast and say "Bottoms up" or "Nice to meet you," you were required to chug the drink so that they could fill your glass, again. I told everyone I was a cheap date, but they wouldn't have it any other way. Although all but one of the men were Vietnamese, no one else seemed to have my allergic curse to alcohol. The worst was when I inhaled a soft belch while slurring something to Nga. Talk about classy...
I was supposed to enroll at the University of Foreign Studies today, but the flooding was still bad from the past two days of rain. Today was nicer, since the sun came out at the latter part of the day. I'm hoping that the weather will continue to improve so that I can enroll on Monday. Wish me luck and have a good rest of your weekend!
Love,
Mark
Monday, August 6, 2001 at 22:23:53
Hey, there!
Last night, I went out for drinks with my Vietnamese teacher's grand daughter Hoai Huong, another Viet Kieu from Boston, MA, also named Huong, and Nga. All of them can speak Vietnamese fluently, which is bad when they want to say things in private. It was like the Far Side comic where the dog hears the owner saying "Blah, blah, blah. Blah, blah, blah..." Just kidding.
Most people whom I meet in Vietnam call me by my Vietnamese name, "Dung," pronounced "Zo-om" with a quick break in the middle. I know it doesn't look great in English, but in Vietnamese, it means "brave" or "courage." Our tour guide in Cat Ba would usually get my attention by calling "Zoom! Zoom! Zoom!" Although I'm getting used to that name in Vietnam, I'll always be Mark.
At 7:30 this morning, I moved out of the Hoa Linh hotel, because the receptionists that worked there were very unenthusiastic with cold personalities. They didn't give me my phone messages nor did they smile. So, I moved to another hotel, close by on Hang Hom Street, called Hang Nga, room #206 (84-4) 8.285385 Just in case you need me...
After my big move, Nga drove me about 7 kilometers to the University of Foreign Studies where I signed up for one on one 3-hour classes every Tuesday and Thursday. Since class is from 8-11:30am, I need to hire a motorbike driver to transport me to and from class. Hopefully, I can do that for no more than $1 each way. If classes go well and I'm not feeling too overwhelmed by the workload, I may sign up for one or two more classes per week.
In the afternoon, I went to a cafe that caters to foreigners, ordered a mocha, and finished my book titled Catfish and Mandala. It's the memoirs of a Vietnamese-American who escaped from Vietnam in 1975 and returned to Vietnam for a solo bicycle journey to rediscover his his homeland. I highly recommend it, especially for returning Viet Kieu. The author's name is Andrew X. Pham.
Talk to you, soon!
Love,
Mark
Tuesday, August 7, 2001 at 10:26:47
Dear folks,
I had my first Vietnamese class at the University of Foreign Studies. My teacher's name is Lan. She's very thorough and doesn't beat around the bush when I pronounce words incorrectly. The material is taught with formal introductions and other basic conversation. The Vietnamese classes that I've been taking in the U.S. have been quite helpful. I met a few students from Australia who are learning Vietnamese for school credits. But, there's an older Singaporean/Chinese who's learning Vietnamese, because she's so intrigued with the country and learning a new language, in general. Talk about inspiring self-motivation!
So, I have a good feeling about the classes, the teacher, and the other students. I had no problem finding a motorbike driver for the amount that I wanted. He'll probably be my regular driver for the rest of my university transportation needs. Although, it's probably not his most exciting destination, it's reliable work.
I'm wondering if 3 weeks is enough time to learn at the university? Perhaps, I should just stay in Hanoi and save Saigon for another trip? The problem is, I already informed a few Vietnamese friends that I was planning to visit them in Saigon. It's just that the accent is a good deal different in Hanoi and Saigon. Perhaps, I should learn the southern Saigon accent, after I get the basics of Vietnamese down in the north? That way, I won't be biting off more than I can chew. Hmmm...
Any suggestions?
Love,
Mark
P.S. I know that the date stamps on the archive postings page is incorrect, since it gets the date information from California's computer servers - not Vietnam's. So, I'm technically posting these letters 14 hours ahead from the time it states. Sorry about that...
Wednesday, August 8, 2001 at 04:35:09
Dear everyone,
This afternoon, I went out for a drink with Patrick. When I met the Vietnamese owner of the bar, she asked me a few questions in Vietnamese. After I told her that I live in the U.S. and was born in Saigon, she said "Ah, Viet Kieu" with a tinge of resentment. Is the term Viet Kieu an insult or a harmless observation? I read about that question in "Catfish and Mandala." Perhaps, it's the same feeling when people say Viet Cong or Viet Minh when they simply mean Vietnamese veteran? I guess, it's all in the connotation.
There are two kinds of Vietnamese people I meet: The first, being friendly people who ask a lot of questions, such as my age, name, and marital status. The second are the ones who merely nod and say "Ah, Viet Kieu" and then ignore me, like the unfriendly receptionists at my former hotel. But, I find that the ones who ask a lot of questions don't ever say "Viet Kieu," which is why I wonder if it's viewed as an insult. For the most part, I'll try not to take it personally.
The other night, I met a couple of Danish friends of Nga. We played a challenging game where you have to single-handedly remove blocks that are stacked upon one another, without making the rest of the blocks fall. Unfortunately, I don't know the name of the game, but it definitely gets harder after a couple of beers... (That's what *she* said...)
Today, was a relaxing day. I did some homework for class and not much else. My stomach started to pinch for the first time, although I haven't been drinking the water. It's not even unbearable, but I need to be sure that my cold drinks aren't served with ice cubes. I tend to forget, especially when I'm amongst friends.
Talk to you, soon!
Love,
Mark
Friday, August 10, 2001 at 05:18:57
Hey, there!
I decided to go to class at the University of Foreign Studies today, so I'll be attending three times a week, instead of two. But, I regretted going today, for I had a bad cold most likely from too much air-conditioning in my room, and couldn't sleep very well. I usually get up at 6am, have a quick breakfast which is included with my hotel, and get to school by 7:45. That leaves me some time to hang out and drink tea with the teachers and students before class.
Unfortunately, this morning, I didn't wake up until 6:50. I ended up missing breakfast, which I mistakenly substituted with a warm bottle of Coke and a bland package of beef jerky. Talk about the breakfast of champions. On top of that, the hotel didn't have my laundry ready for me, so I ended up wearing a long-sleeve wool sweatshirt to class. No wonder I was a mess! But, you learn from your mistakes! My teacher, co Lan, was patient and understanding of my poor condition. She is constantly encouraging me to speak in Vietnamese with confidence, so I enjoy working with her, very much.
The 5 or 6 teachers that teach at the university always converse with the students during the half hour break. Since it's a one-on-one class, the break room can easily fit everyone.
After I returned from class, I went to a water slide park with my Swiss friend, Patrick. We rented a motorbike and drove about 20 minutes away from the central city of Hanoi to the water park. It was disgustingly hot, so it was a great choice.
The water park was similar to most parks in the U.S. The most obvious difference was that it was populated mostly with Vietnamese and only a handful of foreigners. They had everything from wave machines to fully-enclosed tube slides that seemed to go on forever! But, I should probably mention that they also offer Thai massage...
During the day, some kids would float up to Patrick in their inner tubes and ask "Where are you from?" As soon as they heard me speak English to Patrick, they would congregate around me, laugh at my broken Vietnamese, and say "Viet Kieu!" Oh, well. You can't win them all.
Unfortunately, at the end of our day at the water park, it began to sprinkle. By the time we changed and got to the motorbike parking lot, the rain started to come down in buckets! So, Patrick and I waited it out for about half an hour underneath some shelter and drove back to our individual hotels without getting completely drenched.
I plan to go to bed early tonight, so I can get rid of this cold, once and for all. Wish me luck!
Take care and I'll talk to you, soon.
Love,
Mark
Saturday, August 11, 2001 at 01:18:10
Hello, again!
I forgot to mention in my last email that I also had a runny nose, probably due to the contrast of the weather's humidity and the air-conditioning in my hotel room. So, I was constantly blowing my nose and sneezing during my Vietnamese class, which was a real drag. Altogether, I was hot, sick, hungry, and tired. But, today, I feel much better!
The other night, I tried Vietnamese snails for the first time, which tasted like really tough calamari. But, last night was a new experience for me. I invited my hotel staff of 5 friendly young men to join me for beer to drink in the lobby. (So much for my idea of going to bed, early) To my surprise, my money also paid for a huge platter of raw chicken feet, which they called "chicken legs." They said that it is complimentary dish that men eat when they sit around, talk, and drink beer. I told them that chicken feet wasn't served as food in the U.S., which sounded like a terrible waste to them. After all, waste not, want not.
I must admit that I was a tad apprehensive about inserting a bird's claw in my mouth and crunching the toes off the way the others did so effortlessly. But, I picked up one of the chicken feet and tore right into it. There didn't seem to be a whole lot of meat to bite off. The little that I could extract tasted gamy and didn't improve with each swallow of watered-down beer. I felt like I was in an episode of the Discovery channel. I'm sure my "guests" enjoyed watching me put on my poker face as I gnawed on the talons, with a smile and an occasional "Mmmmm..." Yeah, right. When they asked me if it was delicious, I told them that it was merely okay, because I preferred other parts of the chicken - like the head. I'm positive that the next dish they'll serve me will be dog meat, since they know I haven't tried that yet. Then, I'll really know how to 'wok' my dog. I can't wait...
I've quickly learned to compose all of my emails in a text program such as WordPad, so that I can save it to the computer's hard drive in the event that the computer freezes or the building's electricity goes out. One of the customers next to me just left upset, because he lost his work due to the Web browser crashing. Too bad...
On another note, I want to let you know that I haven't braved driving the motorbikes in Hanoi, yet. When I say that I'm riding, that means that I'm riding in back of the driver. I will eventually find the courage to drive the motorbike myself, but would rather wait until the roads aren't so slick from the rain. I've only seen one minor accident and a few close calls. But, as long as you're on your toes and can blend with the flow of traffic, you should be fine.
Okay, that's it for now. I've been having a relaxing rainy day so far, writing email and chatting with Vietnamese folks when the power goes out. I may meet up with Nga and friends tonight, so that should be nice. Aside from my Vietnamese classes, and tentative plans to drink with my hotel staff, my schedule's pretty open.
Love,
Mark
Monday, August 13, 2001 at 04:22:22
Dear folks,
When I came down for breakfast this morning, I discovered that the hotel staff had overslept. There was an Australian couple already waiting in the dining room for someone to take their food order, but the staff took their exhausted, sweet time rearranging the makeshift furniture beds back to their normal state. The couple's patience level must have reached its peak when I sat down at a table adjacent to them, because they asked "Are you going to make us breakfast?" I smiled and said "No, I will not make you breakfast. I'm actually a guest at this hotel and would love to get my breakfast, too" So, that was my funny story for the day.
Last night, Nga made a delicious dinner at her house, which finally gave me a chance to meet her sister and parents. They were very sweet and welcoming, despite the fact that none of them knew how to speak English. Between toasts of beer and dipping fried spring rolls into my fish soup saturated rice, Nga was a helpful translator for us. I even got a chance to practice some new Vietnamese idioms that I'd recently learned, so that was nice. Since Nga informed her Dad about my low alcohol tolerance, he kept our toasting to a minimum.
Afterwards, Nga and I drove to a popular cafe to listen to an acoustic guitar duo perform pieces such as "Romance for Guitar," The Beatles' "Fool on the Hill," and many Simon and Garfunkel ballads. As I listened to their beautiful arrangements, I kept saying to myself, "I suck. I suck. I suck." I mean, these guitarists were really talented! Their flawless technique and resonating notes inspired me to learn and practice my guitar, again. Now that my broken finger is nearly healed, that is a promise I intend to keep.
Love,
Mark
Wednesday, August 15, 2001 at 23:31:16
Dear Everyone,
Today is going to be a busy day. My Vietnamese teacher, Lan, is going to meet me at my hotel and take me to the TV station so that I can place an ad for my birth mother in Hanoi, as well as in Saigon. I wish I made high quality copies of all of my photos from when I was in the orphanage, including a current one of myself. That way, the photos will look somewhat decent on TV. All I brought were black and white scanned copies. Sigh... Now, I know for next time. For now, I'll just give the TV station the info that I have, which includes my full Vietnamese name, my biological mother's full name, the village where she was from, and the hospital where I was born. I may also place ads on the radio and newspaper. We'll see...
I'm going to take my teacher out to dinner tonight as a way of thanking her for helping me on her day off. Another interesting fact is that she thoroughly enjoys sharpening my pencils. Whenever I need to write in my workbook, I'll pull out a fresh pencil for her to sharpen. It's very endearing and cute, because she focuses so intently on the plastic debris collector as she shaves the pencil to a point. She also smacks her lips whenever she talks about food. So, although I poke fun at her during class, we get a lot of work done.
Unfortunately, my usual motorbike driver didn't show up to take me to university yesterday, so I had to find another one. Class usually begins about 10-15 minutes after 8, so I wasn't too late. Still, I didn't want to hire another driver and have him pull up. Talk about awkward. Will he show up next time, or should I find someone else? I don't think he forgot about me, since he had been taking me to class all of the other regular times. Nothing changed since we last talked and I even repeated my schedule in Vietnamese so that we were clear. Hmmm... I just hope he didn't get in an accident.
Internet cafes are all over Hanoi. The cost ranges from 150 Vietnamese dong (currency) per minute to 400. But, the latter price is usually for the single computer stations in hotels for your convenience. The positive side to spending more for a single station is that you won't be sharing the 33k modem line with 9 or 15 other computers! Talk about a huge contrast to the speed of DSL, T1, or even 56k modems! The price for internet use is relatively cheap since the exchange rate is about 15,000 VND for $1 USD. But, the slow connection will drive you crazy...
VietChat is the hottest thing that the locals do in the internet cafes. I would say that the natives usually outnumber the foreigners. They spend hours chatting, sending email, hanging out, smoking, and drinking iced coffee with condensed milk and Coke. It's truly the wave of entertainment, next to watching TV or VCDs.
Last night, I went out to dinner with the lovely granddaughter of my Vietnamese teacher, who tutors me in S.F. Her name is Hoai Huong, which means "longing for perfume." We had a nice chat over a delicious dish of eel. They were certainly served fresh, because I passed the bowl filled with splashing live ones a we walked to our table. I did a double take, because they looked like rather large snakes.
It's rare that I associate and view my meal as a living creature. I know where chicken, beef, shrimp, and fish come from. But, for some reason, I can separate myself from the idea when I buy it at Safeway. Unlike people who live or grew up on farms, the thought of killing Bessie the cow in order to have dinner turns my stomach. But, I'm always up for a tasty burger with bacon!
Okay, that's enough of my rambling. I'll let you know how things go at the TV station.
Love,
Mark
Friday, August 17, 2001 at 03:28:01
Dear Peeps,
Yesterday, my Vietnamese teacher, Lan, picked me up on her motorbike and took me to the TV station. She disclaimed that she was not a very good driver and she was right. We drove slower than the flow of traffic and she had a difficult time balancing the motorbike. I'm surprised she's allowed on the road at all! But, I really shouldn't be critical, since she was so kind to take me on her day off.
At the TV station, Lan translated my original Vietnam release forms, contact info, and overall message, stating that I'm a Vietnamese foreigner who's looking for his biological mother. They don't use photos or any other kind of media when they make their announcements, so I didn't have to worry about a photo. It will be broadcast in all of Vietnam (channel VTV1) for three consecutive nights at 6:15 pm, starting tonight. So, that's pretty good for $40!
Although, I'm optimistic about finding my birth mother, I'm realistic and not going to hold my breath. The likelihood that my ad will be answered by impostors is very high, since I'll be perceived as a rich American. But, that's a risk I'm willing to take. I enclosed my email address along with phone numbers in the U.S. and Vietnam. (Lan generously offered her number) So, I may hear an answer from someone while I'm here. Then again, I may not. Searches like this can go on for months and even years. So, I may have to take trips back here for DNA tests. We'll see...
Okay, that's it for now. Tonight, I'm going to have a nice dinner with Nga and some Danish friends. So, I'll let you know how the ad went!
Love,
Mark
Friday, August 17, 2001 at 23:58:11
Dear Everyone,
I saw my ad last night, which aired at exactly 6:15pm after the Vietnam news on VTV1. Basically, it looks like a static, no-frills Web page with the Vietnamese written message in white text on a blue background. A voice over reads the text slowly, which leaves enough time for the viewer to copy any desired information. It's nothing flashy by any means, but it gets the point across. My ad was in the middle of four or five others in similar fashion. So, I guess it's a popular method for running searches or announcements in Vietnam.
The weather is pretty muggy, and I regret not bringing thinner cotton or linen clothing. Of course, I could buy new or custom-made clothes, but I'll still have to bring my other clothes back. Unfortunately, that will leave less room for souvenirs in my tiny carry-on suitcase.
Speaking of clothing, it's a bad idea to bring any of your favorite or fancy outfits to Vietnam unless you get them cleaned at a 4 or 5 star hotel or hand wash them yourself. The laundry service tends to scrub your clothes raw, which make them lose their form and somewhat unrepairable. And in most cases, your clothes are returned to you more wrinkled than before. Oh, well. At least, they're clean...
I'm thinking about staying in Hanoi until September 10th. That will give me about 12 days in Saigon, which will leave enough time for me to return to the Viet Hoa orphanage and other areas that involved my first year in Vietnam, so that I can leave contact information in the event that my birth mother goes there. It will also give me a chance to contrast my experience with Hanoi and see some friends I met during my last visit in January 2000.
On another note, I wanted to apologize for some of the typos and errors in my postings. Since the internet is painfully slow in the daytime, I usually compose these letters late at night in a humid, stuffy room, filled with smoke and pounding Asian techno. Since I want to get out of the internet cafe as soon as possible, I don't always proof-read my letters or run a spell-check. Sigh... I'll try to be better about that from now on.
Take care and I'll talk to you, soon!
Love,
Mark
Tuesday, August 21, 2001 at 10:17:08
Dear Folks,
Sorry to quote Destiny's Child, but "MTV Asia" plays the same 10 videos over and over. If it's not Destiny's Child or Ricky Martin, it's N*Sync or some other boy band. I guess, that's what I get for living in a hotel without a radio or CD player...
On a less important note, things continue to go well at the university and life in Hanoi. I'm regularly practicing my Vietnamese with the locals, such as the gang who work at my hotel and Nga's friends. The most difficult part of the learning process is remembering vocabulary. But, it will come to me, eventually. Patience, young Skywalker...
For the past two days, I've been taking it easy. It's too hot to be outside, so I've been spending some time in the numerous internet cafes, modifying the look and features of my Ooga Media Web site. I know that sounds nerdy, but it keeps me grounded. I mean, I can only practice Vietnamese for so long and it makes my brain hurt. In a way, it needs a change of scenery. Without too much glee, I created an email form so that it's easy for visitors to send a quick note to me, directly from the Ooga Media Web site. Talk about convenience!
Among other things, I'm learning that it's difficult to have a relationship if you're a foreigner, dating someone in Vietnam. For instance, I have a Japanese friend who moved to Hanoi after quitting her job in Japan, only to discover that her Vietnamese boyfriend doesn't want to be with her, anymore. His concern is that his traditional family and friends won't approve, because she's not Vietnamese and others will think that he's just marrying her just for her money. Talk about pressure!
There's also the status issue. Men in Vietnam are supposed to make more money than the woman. So, the fact that she already has and makes more money is not good in their eyes. Instead of sticking up for what he believes in, or asking his family and friends to open their mind, he's not willing to give the relationship a chance. In fact, he already knew that he didn't want to deal with the potential qualms with dating a foreigner, but didn't bother to tell her until she had already landed in Vietnam.
Another situation, is my Vietnamese friend who's dating a man from Switzerland. Although, they talk about having a future together, she won't dare tell her parents about him in fear that they won't approve. The main difference, is that she's willing to tell her parents about him, once he moves to Vietnam next year. So, that's a positive step forward instead of backward.
Vietnam obviously has a different culture than the one I grew up with in the U.S., so it's easy for me to be critical about fighting for what you believe in. But, I know that it's not that easy, especially when it comes to family and tradition. Relationships alone, aren't easy. Can one really change so much for someone else? Not only is there long-distance and language barriers, there's the sacrifice of one's homeland, culture, family, and friends. But, I think things can work out if both parties make an effort - not one.
That's it for now, for it's time to go to bed.
Love,
Mark
Friday, August 24, 2001 at 11:13:22
Dear Everyone,
Last night, my Vietnamese teacher from the university asked me to meet with her journalist friend, who's interested in helping me look for my biological parents. Unfortunately, we had to cancel our meeting, because she got a ticket on her motorbike for making a left turn, illegally. At first, I felt responsible, since she was scheduled to pick me up at my hotel. But, then I remembered her "driving skills" and it made sense. Honestly, I'd give her a ticket for simply being on the road.
On the way home from university, I saw a woman crouched in the busy street with her hands over her head, as if preparing for an earthquake. I kept my eyes on her until she was swallowed in the sea of motorbikes behind us. When I later inquired about it, I learned that it's a means for really poor people to get hit for money, or simply to commit suicide. Although, my motorbike driver swerved around her at the last second, it seemed like it would be a matter of seconds before she would make contact with an unfortunate, speeding vehicle. Even the police officers on their motorbikes behind us, avoided her without stopping to aid her to the side of the road. Did anyone care whether this human being lived or died? I felt so sad and empty with that "common" knowledge, yet I didn't do anything about it, either. Sigh...
On a lighter subject, it's very common for Vietnamese people to inquire about personal details, such as your marital status, age, work, and where you live. That's everyday conversation to express interest in one another.
I've decided not to tell anyone where I'm staying in Vietnam anymore, because I'm not sure it's safe. At first, I thought it was harmless, but after I told a waitress that I was staying at a hotel on Hang Hom Street, she called my hotel, asking when I'd come back to her bar. She also told me that she was waiting for me all day to visit, when I never agreed to such a thing! I don't believe there was any confusion on my part, since we only spoke English and she sounded fluent. Also, my friend Patrick took me there, so I'm not even sure I could find it again! It was an invasion of privacy and I'm not going to disclose that kind of information as freely, anymore. That's too bad, because I liked that aspect of Vietnamese conversation.
Okay, that's it for now. It's almost 1am, and I need to get out of this internet cafe and go to bed! I've been up since 6am for my Vietnamese class, which started at 8!
Love,
Mark
Wednesday, August 29, 2001 at 00:09:22
Dear folks,
Nga's motorbike was stolen yesterday, and she's naturally upset and devastated. Her parents aren't currently working, so it will be a while until they get a replacement. It's such a shame, because Nga's motorbike was stolen right outside of her workplace and I don't believe vehicle insurance exists in Vietnam. Although she reported the crime to the police, it's doubtful that they'll be able to do anything about it. But, we'll see what happens.
Lately, I've been hanging out with another Viet Kieu named Shanice, from Australia. I met her in the break room at university, or "uni" as the Aussies call it. Although she's fluent in speaking Vietnamese to her Viet parents, she never knew how to read or write it. She's already been in Vietnam for 6 months, so I think she's learned a lot by now.
The other night, when Shanice and I went out for dinner, we witnessed a small boy dragging an old man by a leash. It looked as though the man was hurt or even dead in the street, but Shanice told me that it's another tired ploy for money. Still, the vision was quite haunting and I regret not giving them anything when I had the chance.
Last week, my masseuse tried to give me a 'special' massage, but I didn't want to encourage or contribute to that kind of behavior in order for women to make extra money. I told her in Vietnamese that I'd still give her a good tip and that it simply wasn't necessary. She nodded and continued to reach under my towel, so I had to pull her hands away in order to make it clear. Sigh...
Being rude or showing anger simply doesn't seem to be done in Vietnam, but it was the only way to be firm. I guess, she got offended since she told me that my time was up. I could have sworn that I had half an hour more, but I wasn't going to argue. She didn't speak a word of English, so it was best that I just left. I mean, how do you complain to management about that sort of thing? Talk about a touchy subject.
Okay, that's it for now. I need to go check up on Nga and see how she's doing. Take care!
Love,
Mark
Tuesday, September 4, 2001 at 21:40:28
Dear folks,
I know that it's been a while since my last letter. Things have been busy during my last week in Hanoi. I will certainly miss the wonderful people I've met along the way. That's one of the benefits of staying in one area as opposed to traveling. Overall, I have no regrets and feel that my Vietnamese has improved greatly, since my arrival.
Yesterday, I saw Jurassic Park III which was over-dubbed in Vietnamese. Since I'd already seen it in the U.S., I didn't mind not being able to hear the original dialogue. Usually, when foreign movies are over-dubbed, a woman's voice translates for all of the characters - even for men and children's voices. Although the original audio is still audible in the background, the impact of the music and sound effects aren't as great.
Another reason why I wanted to see Jurassic Park III again, was because I know Robert Dalva, who edited the film. Robert should be pleased, because the Vietnamese audience was thoroughly entertained with the special effects and scary surprises! I don't think many of them had seen the first two Jurassic Park films, but it didn't seem to matter. Unfortunately, Jurassic Park III is already available in VCD shops, as is Tomb Raider, Rush Hour 2, and Planet of the Apes. But, I'm sure that the overall quality is horrendous!
Among other things, I recently got a haircut with a luxurious face massage. The massage was so relaxing, that I just wanted to sleep and forget the haircut, altogether! I'm very pleased with my new haircut, for I was looking a bit shaggy. Since I had just gotten some new clothes custom made, I wanted to look somewhat decent.
Regarding my new clothes, Nga helped me bargain for the materials quite a bit. She instructed me to only say "yes, I like" and "no, I don't like" in Vietnamese, so that the sales people wouldn't know that I'm a foreigner and charge me extra. Of course, they eventually figured it out due to my limited vocabulary. But, since there are so many shops in the market, it's up to them whether they want to make the sale or not. Since I bought a lot of material, they seemed pretty content.
Last Sunday, was Independence Day in Vietnam, so many people had the day off on Monday. Over the weekend, the streets were crammed with people and motorbikes. There were also a few stages with circus acts and live music in celebration of the holiday. I hung out with a lot of friends and went dancing again at the disco tech called New Century. If I didn't mention it before, the decor inside is very modern with laser lights, repetitive techno music, and dry ice. On the weekends, the place is packed, leaving limited space for dancing.
I heard that in the second floor of New Century, there are karaoke rooms. Only, these rooms are usually reserved for men who want to be accompanied by beautiful women who will sing, drink, and anything else. Again, I'm surprised by the common knowledge of what goes on. Even around the club, you'll find groups of young women sitting at tables, waiting for potential prospects. Although they are gorgeous, it breaks my heart to know their primary reason for being there.
Okay, that's it, for now. Take care and please don't forget to keep in touch - even if it's a short note!
Love,
Mark
Friday, September 7, 2001 at 21:34:17
Dear Everyone,
I'm really bummed, because I discovered that my camera was broken, causing all but one of my five photo rolls to be blurry. At first, I thought I had bad rolls of film, but then remembered one day when I accidentally dropped the camera on the ground. Hence, the reason why the first roll was worth developing. I guess, I could get the camera realigned, but I'm going to hold off until I return to the States. Since yesterday was my last day at university, I bought a disposable camera to capture the remainder of my stay.
Fortunately, a handful of photos of my first week in Hanoi survived. But, the mementos of five weeks of friends, gatherings, and beautiful sights have gone down the drain. Sigh... I took numerous photos of the decorated and busy streets of Hanoi during the National Independence Day, last Sunday. Oh well. At least I have the memories in my head. The moral of the story is, develop your film during the trip. I'm just glad that I found out now, and not when I got home!
Remember my friend Nga's Honda Dream motorbike was stolen right in front of her workplace, last week? Well, I broke down and presented her family a new motorbike. Although, it's not as nice or remotely as expensive as their last one, it will help them get around the city.
I really had to be careful about this decision, because I didn't want to come across as the "rich American" who has tons of money to blow. I'm just in a position where I can help. When I first made the offer, Nga said that it was too much money and that she'll find a way to save up for a new bike. But, after a few days of consideration, she realized that it would really help her save money - not spend it. Since her parents aren't currently working due to issues with their restaurant, it would take years to save for a new motorbike. In the end, they seem very pleased with the gift, so that makes me happy.
Purchasing the motorbike was quite an experience. Whenever anyone buys a new motorbike, you have to wait until it's assembled. Unlike the U.S., you can't just drive the vehicle off the lot. So, Nga and I had to wait for 3 hours while they took parts from the other bikes and attached them to hers. That even included adding gas and decals. Even after all of that work and time, her new bike still isn't ready for the road, since it was literally thrown together. So, her Dad is going to reassemble and fix it so that everything will operate safely.
Since Nga and I rode to the motorbike lot on her friend Alex's motorbike, we had to drive two bikes home from the shop. I know that I promised my Vietnamese teacher in the U.S. that I wouldn't drive, but I slowly drove Alex's bike safely while Nga rode next to me. I would say that the hardest part about driving in Hanoi traffic is shifting the gears every time you need to stop and speed up. Like everything else, the more you practice, the easier things get.
Yesterday, I bought my plane ticket to Saigon. Since I'm Viet Kieu, I'm entitled to the prices that the natives get, which is $61 instead of the foreigner's price of $127! I also learned that for $10 extra, I can break up my flight. So, on Monday, I will visit Hoi An for a couple of days and continue onto Saigon on Wednesday.
Okay, that's about it. Thanks for your quick notes, and I'll talk to you, soon!
Love,
Mark
Thursday, September 13, 2001 at 21:49:32
Dear Everyone,
I've been holding off from posting my updates in Vietnam, since they seem trivial to the tragedy that happened in the U.S. I hope that no one you know has been affected or is missing. Please let me know if there's anything I can do. I've heard from a couple of friends who are safe in New York, but that's it. Although CNN is constantly on the TVs in bars, shopping malls, and hotel lobbies throughout Vietnam, I feel disconnected from how people in the U.S. are truly reacting. Part of me is glad to be so far away from it all. But, I wish I were back in the U.S. with loved ones.
Many friends and locals I'd recently met in Vietnam have expressed their concern, regarding the incident. They ask me where I'm from in the U.S. and whether my family and friends are okay. That's comforting, especially since the CNN coverage has been bringing me down. Also, the thought of citizens attacking innocent Arab-Americans is even more depressing.
I hope that movies' special effects (i.e., "Pearl Harbor") haven't conditioned people to the horrific visuals of the plane crashes captured on Tuesday. I'm sure that we all wish that they were just that - special effects.
Okay, enough of my rambling. It's just that I don't really have anyone to talk to about this, here. I haven't been doing much since my arrival in Saigon on Thursday morning. I didn't sleep very well the night before my flight, since I found out about the plane crashes (20 minutes after they occurred in the U.S.). I couldn't keep my eyes off of the TV all night, so I was exhausted when I landed.
My life in Vietnam had already changed before Tuesday's disaster. I said farewell to my good friends in Hanoi and flew to Hoi An. While I was there, I met up with my former tour guide and friend, Nhung, who was currently touring, and another San Franciscan named Eric. We ate the delicious dish cao lau, shopped, and got some clothes made. During my second and last day in Hoi An, I met up with another friend, Hien. She didn't like that my visit was so short, but I figured that it was better than nothing at all.
Yesterday, was my second day in Saigon. I went to my friend Uyen's house and spent time with her family. Afterwards, we went went to the SuperBowl and played a game, where I really stressed my recently broken finger. It's still tender, so I'll have to get that looked at when I return to the States. That is, unless my flight that's scheduled on the 22nd will be delayed.
Overall, it's nice to meet up with friends I'd met during my visit to Vietnam, last year. But, I can't seem to pull myself away from the TV. This isn't how I wanted to spend my time in Saigon, but oh, well. I just don't want to miss anything.
Okay, that's it. Take care and please send me a note, regarding your feelings, etc. As I said before, CNN coverage is everywhere in Saigon, but I still feel like I'm in the dark.
Love,
Mark
Friday, September 21, 2001 at 19:26:02
Dear everyone,
Well, this wraps up the end of my trip in Vietnam. I was considering extending my trip for another week in Saigon, but due to the situation of the U.S. and the Middle East, I've decided to come home. After all, I want to leave enough cushion time for my sister's wedding in October. But, I'm sure my flight home won't have any delays. I'm scheduled to return on Saturday, September 22nd at 6:45pm.
I'll miss Vietnam and the life I've become accustomed to over the past couple of months, but I'm ready to come home. I may return to Vietnam soon, because I feel that to really learn the language, immersion is the best way. Who knows? If the U.S. does go to war, I may not be able to return to Vietnam for a while. That was another reason why I considered staying another week. But, I do miss my family and friends in the U.S. I can't wait to see you!
Okay, that's it for now. Thanks for letting me share my experiences with you. Your correspondence has made my trip in Vietnam that much more enjoyable. Thanks again, and I hope to see you soon!
Love,
Mark
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